Crispy carp chips, fine fillets or the classic "blue carp" - Lusatian fish is more varied than many people think. The Hempel family from Milkel near Bautzen has been dedicated to pond farming for generations and proves that carp and co. are anything but old-fashioned. In this interview, senior boss Annegret Hempel talks about the special taste of Lusatian fish, culinary surprises and why solidarity among pond keepers is so important.
Ms. Hempel, you run the fishing farm in Milkel with your son Lars. How did this come about?
I actually trained as a sales clerk - I would never have dreamed that I would one day be cutting up and selling fish. My husband was a fisherman, as was his father. After reunification, the VEB Binnenfischerei Königswartha site in Milkel was to close down. We wanted to carry on and bought it. The early days were particularly tough. Everything was completely new for us. It was a lot of work to survive on the market and find customers. When my husband died early, my son was suddenly on his own in his early 20s. We decided together: We'll carry on. Today we look after 28 ponds together.
Many people associate carp with an earthy or muddy taste. Where does this prejudice come from?
This is actually an outdated prejudice that we hear again and again. In the past, carp were sometimes brought straight from the pond to the plate. There are natural substances in the water that cause this taste - and you can taste it in the fish. However, we place our carp in so-called holding facilities, in tanks with fresh Spree water, before selling them. They swim there for several weeks. During this time, they lose their musty aftertaste and develop their fine, clear aroma. Anyone who has ever tasted a Lusatian carp will immediately notice the difference.
What is your favorite way to prepare your fish?
Of course there are classics like "blue carp" or fried fillet. But carp cuisine has long since become more creative. We fillet the carp and cut the bones - so we can also offer fish for modern dishes. Carp also works wonderfully with Asian cuisine, for example.
You landed a very special culinary hit for Christmas 2024...
Exactly, in collaboration with a trader from the Bautzen Christmas market. He made delicious "carp chips" from wafer-thinly sliced carp fillets. The fillets were deep-fried until crispy - it was a real hit! Young people in particular loved it. He had to keep calling us and reordering from time to time. We cut a lot of fillets during those weeks, but we were of course delighted with the popularity.
Is your fish also something for people who don't normally eat carp?
Absolutely! Many younger customers come to our farm for carp for the first time. They like the regionality and appreciate the fact that they know exactly where their food comes from. Our fillets are ready to cook and easy to prepare - everything is possible, from oven recipes to grilling. You just have to have the courage to try something new.
Lusatian fish is closely linked to the region. How important is cohesion among the pond keepers?
Very important. We are all in the same boat - in the truest sense of the word. Everyone knows that the work is hard: from feeding to fishing. We help each other, share experiences and lend a hand when necessary. This would be almost impossible without help, especially when it comes to large-scale fishing operations.
And if someone is interested - how do you get your fish?
From November to April, we have a farm sale every Saturday from 9 am to 12 noon. We have fresh fish - filleted and ready to cook. We also have smoked fish on offer. Many guests combine their purchase with a walk through the pond landscape. And it's not unusual for them to take home inspiration for a new recipe.
Finally: What does Lusatian fish mean to you personally?
For me, it is a piece of home. It stands for tradition, for honest work in and with nature - and for really good taste. When our customers go home with a smile and a fresh fish, I know that it was worth it again.