Craftsmanship meets culinary art: beer brewing, home-grown vegetables, slow food and a creative approach to regional ingredients characterize the philosophy of the Obermühle in Görlitz. In this interview, Jörg Daubner, trained chef and managing director, explains how a cab driver had a decisive influence on his life, why passion is the most important ingredient in the restaurant business and what visions he has for the culinary identity of Upper Lusatia.
Mr. Daubner, before we talk about the Obermühle, why don't you tell us something about your career? How did you get to where you are today?
I trained as a chef and completed my apprenticeship in Berlin before studying at the University of Potsdam. I learned about self-employment early on through my family. My mother had studied food technology and graduated in beer brewing. She had owned the Obermühle since 1992, having been in the family since 1953. A year later, she started brewing beer herself. We then sold it at marketplaces in the region. It wasn't until 1999 that she opened the restaurant. In 2016, I finally took over the management of the family business.
Was taking over and continuing the tradition always your goal?
Not necessarily. I actually wanted to study and try things out. A formative moment was when I met a cab driver in Berlin. He advised me not to study hotel management, as I had actually intended, but to study business administration and something for the heart - philosophy. His advice convinced me. One day later, I enrolled for both subjects in Potsdam.
Did a stranger talk you out of your original plan?
Exactly, but I believe in the power of moments like that. If we’re open-minded enough, we simply realize that things make sense. That was the case for me back then.
What do enjoyment and food mean to you personally?
For me, eating is a cultural experience. Enjoyment takes on a deeper meaning when you understand the background—the origins of the ingredients, the techniques. I learned that especially during my time in Michelin-starred cuisine at “Hugo’s” in Berlin. That continues to shape my view of quality to this day. It’s about understanding a craft and constantly refining it.
What was your start at the Obermühle like? Did you still do a lot of cooking yourself?
Yes, at first I helped out in the kitchen. Back then, we had five employees, and I had to take on many roles at once. During the pandemic, I even cooked for the daycare centers myself when they were providing emergency care for children. Cooking is still a part of my life, but my responsibilities now lie primarily in management.
The Obermühle’s concept is unique. What sets it apart?
We follow the Slow Food philosophy that my mother introduced. Regional ingredients and in-house production are at the heart of what we do. We brew beer, make pasta and spirits, grow vegetables, and produce apple juice. Our goal is to combine artisanal production, regional ingredients, and creative cuisine.
How do you manage to organize such a wide range of offerings?
It takes passion—and sometimes that passion involves a lot of hardship. The restaurant business is complex and demands dedication. Our team is very dedicated. My leadership style is always communicative and personalized. I always ask, “What do you need to make this work?” Trust is central to that.
How is Upper Lusatia reflected on your plates?
We try to reinterpret traditional dishes in new ways without losing the connection to the region. I once created a modern take on the Silesian dish “Himmelreich.” Traditionally, it’s prepared with dried fruit sauce, pork belly, and potatoes. My version consisted of confit pork belly, an apple-whiskey sauce, and a potato soufflé.
What is your vision for the culinary identity of Upper Lusatia?
DefiningUpper Lusatia’s culinary identity is a challenge. But I think we need to combine the regional character with modern approaches. This is a process we’re shaping together with our team. Upper Lusatia is a culinary melting pot—it brings together Polish, Czech, and German influences. My vision is to make this diversity more visible without becoming dogmatic. For me, regionality also means openness and creativity.
How does your team develop the menu?
We’re working in an increasingly collaborative way. Just yesterday, we gathered ideas for the new menu while barbecuing together. Ambitious chefs need the freedom to express their creativity. That’s important for both the quality of the food and the team atmosphere.
Finally: What does working at the Obermühle mean to you?
It’s a privilegeto be ableto work with such a great team and as part of this rich history. Here, I can live out my passion for good food, regional ingredients, and leadership. And I hope our guests can sense that.